Hopefully by now you’ve picked up the new issue of Vogue International and checked out the pattern we’re going to use for the Knit-A-Long. It’s the fitted top featured on page 60, and pattern number 17. If you haven’t seen it, look back a post and you’ll see what it looks like. If you’d like to make it, you’re in the right spot as we’re going to make it together right here! I’m going to say we’ll take 3 weeks for this KAL. I’ve also had a brilliant idea (IMHO) to do a finishing “class” with this project at the end. It won’t be a complete class as there’s no sleeves, but it will (hopefully) teach you a few things you should know about finishing a garment.
So there’s a mini-lesson in today’s post – one on substituting yarns. The yarn called for in this particular pattern (actually there are 2) is Artyarns silk and a silk with beads. While these are exquisite yarns, they are a bit pricey. For those looking for a lower price point, I think I may have the perfect answer. First though, we have to look at certain considerations when substituting yarns. Here we go;
- Gauge – the most important thing when looking for a sub is the gauge. If you can’t get the required gauge with the sub yarn, you’ll have to do a lot of calculations for whichever size you’re going to do.sometimes, like when making a blanket or scarf, it’s not an issue at all, but that is not usually the case. Of course getting the gauge doesn’t necessarily mean it will look good though. So at this stage it’s imperative to do a swatch to get the gauge, and then see how that looks.
- Fiber Characteristics – different fibers have different qualities, including things like elasticity, touch, drape, density, and a myriad of other factors that may come into consideration depending on the garment being made. In the case of this one, the most important factors are drape and sheen or luster. Silk has a drape unlike no other fiber, and processed silk has a sheen that just can’t be matched. Rayon or cotton is probably the closest (mercerized cotton). If at all possible, you should try and pick an identical fiber, but if that is not possible, pick the one with the most characteristics in common to the original.
- Yardage – Isn’t it funny that we still say yardage even though most of the time we’re talking in meters? Anyway, when deciding how much of the sub you need, you have to go by yardage, not weight.Most people will look at the original yarn and go by the size (weight) of it to determine how much of the sub they will need. You can’t do that. 100g of one fiber isn’t the same length as 100g of another. Always check the yardage and do some simple math to determine how much you’ll need. Then always add 10% to account for error and the fact that you’re using a substitute.
- Price – While this isn’t necessarily the reason you look for a sub yarn, it quite easily can be. Obviously, if the price of the original is too high, you’ll want to try and find something in a price range you can afford. The truth of the matter is that we can’t always spend $200 on materials to make a garment – especially if it’s not for you!
- Color – Sometimes you just can’t wear any of the colors the original yarn comes in. In this instance you have the options of either dyeing or overdyeing the original yarn, or finding a sub.Since this is of lower priority, you should try and match as many of the above factors before deciding on the sub.
So with the above factors in mind, I think I have found the perfect substitute yarn for this project. It is Silk Bamboo by Patons. It is 30% silk and 70% bamboo. It doesn’t have beads and sequins, but you would be able to decide whether or not you’d want to add those. I think this would still be a stunning piece without the glitz, as the bamboo/silk has a very nice sheen to it. The bamboo makes it lighter than the garment in 100% silk, reducing the drape, but I have my doubts about making such a garment in 100% silk in the first place. With the shoulder straps as they are, I would have concern about the drape over time. The other factor here is cost. To make this top in the original yarn would cost around $300. In the sub yarn, the cost is $50. Obviously, if you have the extra $250 and money isn’t a concern, that’s the way to go.Right now however, I don’t, and i think it will be fine with a little bamboo in it. Here is a link to the Patons site with the silk bamboo. Unfortunately, you don’t get a good sense of the colors from here as the Sea, Sapphire, Moss, and Orchid are stunning. I imagine the royal is too, but I didn’t see it in the store. Another yarn that you could use as a sub is the Rowan Bamboo Tape. With a little adjustment, you can get gauge with this and again, have a suitable substitute.
No, I am not getting any sort of kickback or any other concerns from Patons for this post. I am simply tying to give you a chance to knit a piece that you otherwise might not be able to. I had done a swatch with this yarn on 4.5mm needles to get the gauge and liked how it looked. Give it a try yourself to see if it works for you or try another yarn if you like. You might want to also look at Rowan’s Bamboo Tape. A friend had done another piece in this and you can get the required gauge with it. I will try and get the yarn on Wednesday or Thursday in order to cast on and start this. I hope you’ll be joining me!
Hugzzz 😎