Ok, hopefully by now you’ve finished the front of the top in our KAL. If you haven’t, don’t worry, just keep knitting along at whatever pace is suitable for you. When you get to the ending of the front bodice piece, you want to place your stitches on a holder, instead of casting off as you’re told to do in the instructions. This will help you in fitting the garment to ensure the length is where you want it to be. As in most garments that are worn as tops (sweaters, vests, coats, etc.), adjustments in length are best made before the armpit. This garment has two bra cups that get sewn onto this bodice piece, and by now it should be very evident exactly where. Please remember yarn considerations when lengthening your work. also remember that you will have to lengthen the back to accommodate any changes in the front. I have done 2 extra repeats of the pattern for length, and have tested it. I’m still undecided, but will probably end up ripping out one of the repeats before casting off. Of course, this will all depend on who I decide to give this to! 😉 Here is a picture of the front as is right now …
Now it’s time to start the back. The beginning is quite simple, it’s just a 2×2 rib for 21/2″. If you lengthened the front however, this is where you should make the appropriate adjustments. Lengthen your rib by the same amount that you lengthened the front and you won’t have any problems.
Okay, after you finish your rib the pattern gets a little tricky, and I believe the instructions are in error. What you are now going to do is work a series of short rows to create a triangle shape going up the back on one side of the bodice. After doing this you will then create three strips along the newly created slope and then reverse the triangle you previously made. I know it sounds complicated, but it’s really not. There is I believe, however, an error in the pattern. The instructions tell you to rib 42 stitches on the right side of the work. You then place the remaining 42 stitches on a holder and turn your work. At this point you are to start doing your short rows. If however you start short rowing on the wrong side you will have your triangle shaped in the wrong direction. What I did was finished this row, and then followed the short row instructions beginning on a right side. The results were as I expected, and correct. Here is a picture.
This is look at the back of the top from the right side. If you’re very observant, you’ll notice that my extra yarn tail is on the right, and not the left as it may be with yours. That is because I used the long tail cast on and the reverse long tail cast on where I was able to actually cast on in the rib pattern. This allows you to use your cast on row as your first row and get right into the pattern. There are some definite advantages to this and I’ll do a post in the future about it.
So, now back to the bodice. Now that I have done the short rows, I am going to create three straps that will interweave with three straps that will be created on the other side to create the lattice effect of the garment. Again however, I am going to digress from the instructions. In the instructions you go across 14 stitches, turn your work and work one strap to the specified length. You place these stitches on a holder and then do the next two in the same manner. While this works, I think you can increase the aesthetic appearance of the back with a little adjustment. I have 42 stitches to work with so I am going to do the following:
1st Strap – Selvage stitch (this is already there) – Rib 12 sts – selvage st. These are the first 14 stitches from the pattern and the extra stitch is the selvage stitch that I added at the beginning. I will continue it on this strap as a sl1 Purlwise at the beginning of the row and knit at end. The 12 rib stitches need to be evened out (I can’t help it, I’m a Virgo), so I will start with a k1, then p2, k2, to the last stitch and end with a k1. Then I do my second salvage stitch. I will knit this strap to the specified length then go on to the next two. They are slightly different as well …
2nd Strap – This one is much easier. Working with the 15 stitches you have, do the following: CO1, Selvage stitch, rib 12, selvage stitch. Again even out the rib so you start and end with the same stitch (for neatness in appearance).
3rd Strap – This strap requires you to pick up an extra stitch at the end to account for the selvage stitch we’re putting on either side of the straps. The instructions are easy once you’ve done this (you’ll have 15 stitches on the strap). CO 1 stitch, selvage stitch, rib 12, selvage stitch. Again, remember to even out the rib stitches.
*** There is a slight adjustment to the straps above as I realized you need to cast off at the beginning of the second strap instead of the end of the first. If you are reading this after midnight Friday (Apr 8), don’t worry, it has been cleared up. If you read this before and are slightly confused, my apologies. The corrections have been made, so you can follow the instructions as they now are. Congrats if you figured this out on your own!
*** Hmmm, Second slight adjustment to the straps. As it turns out, casting off a stitch between the straps isn’t such a good idea. So what I have done is continue to use selvage stitches with each strap as I like the way that looks. That means though that I have 2 extra stitches. However, because I started my rib with a K1, P2, K2 pattern, my two middle stitches are purl stitches. I can work up to those two stitches, then cast those off to create identical straps on each side, and have even straps. I will cast them back on when I get to the top if I need to. I’m not sure I will because there isn’t any seaming at the top. I should have them done tomorrow to show you.
This is the first part of the right side of the back. I will go through how to complete it in the next post. Remember if you have any questions or comments, just send me an email or post them in the comments. Happy knitting!
Hugzzz 😎