Hi everybody. I would like to wish all my friends and followers in the United States (and even the ones that aren’t yet) a happy Memorial Day. I hope the sun shines on you wherever you are. Well, hopefully by now you have made a swatch or two for your socks, and have picked a set of needles you like, the pattern you’re going to do the sock in (ribbed or stocking stitch), and the method you’re going to use to knit in the round. Let’s quickly review our choices.
- You can use DP’s – double pointed needles come in sets of 4 or 5, and you can use these for the entirety of your socks. If you are using DP’s in a size smaller than 3mm, I would recommend that you go with metal or plastic ones as the bamboo ones have a tendency to break in the smaller sizes. If you are comfortable using the smaller bamboo ones, by all means, disregard this and knit on!
- The Magic Loop – if you have a fairly long circular needle (32″ or more), and are familiar with the magic loop technique, you can use this method of knitting in the round if you like. In it, you are only using one circular needle. You need to divide your work on the tips of both ends of your needle so that approximately half your stitches are on each end. You’ll then notice the the nylon is bare and extending out the end. Slide the second half of your stitches onto the nylon (the half with the last cast on stitch) until you have enough play with the needle tip to easily reach the other stitches. Pull the working yarn snug and knit with the now bare tip into the tip with the first set of stitches on it. You’ll need to make that first stitch a little snug to minimize the gap between the last and first stitch. Once all those stitches are knitted, slide the unused stitches to the tip of the needle and repeat this process. You might want to put a twist in your nylon so the stitches don’t come together , although that really shouldn’t be an issue.
- Using two circulars – If you take a look at two circular needles, you’ll see that they’re the same as 2 DP’s with nylon between them. This means we really have 4 needles and we know that with 4 needles we can knit a circle. To use this process, divide your cast on stitches between the two circular needles. This always reminds me of high school biology where we studied the mating habits of earthworms – this is what they looked liked as they were mating. Knitting is fascinating, isn’t it? 🙂 Let’s label the tips of our needles to make this easier. Needle 1 is the needle with the first half of your stitches. The tip closest to the first cast on stitch is 1, the other is tip 2. The other needles (the one with the last cast on stitch), is needle 2. The tip farthest away from the last cast on stitch is tip 3, and the other, 4. Slide your stitches on needle 1, so that the first cast on stitch is at the tip of tip 1. Slide your stitches on needle 2 so that they are in the middle of the nylon and tip 4 is free. Using tip 4, knit the stitches on tip 1 until they are all on tip 4. All your stitches should now be on needle 2. Slide the stitches on the nylon to tip 3, and slide the stitches that are on tip 4 to the middle of the nylon. Using tip 2 (on needle 1), knit the stitches on tip 3. Now you have half the stitches on each needle again. Repeat this process of sliding and knitting to knit in the round using 2 circulars. You will notice that it is similar to the Magic Loop, but it puts an extra needle in there to alleviate the tension during the twist.
DP's, Magic Loop, and 2 Circulars ...
Okay, now that we have that all figured out, it’s time to get started. From your swatch, you need to measure your gauge. The important thing to record here is the number of stitches you’re getting per inch, and the number of rows you’re getting per inch. In most patterns, people aren’t as particular about their row tension, but it is more accurate to count rows and do a little math than to take your tape measure out, so I suggest you measure and record yours as well. If you are doing your socks in a ribbed pattern, measure your gauge with the rib slightly stretched. If you do it with it entirely relaxed, your socks will be too big. I cast on 48 stitches on both tips of my circular needle, using the alternate long tail cast on method, and knit in a 2×2 rib for 16 rows. I didn’t do a stocking stitch swatch (I know, I know) because I am going to do a ribbed sock (until I get to the heel and sole). My gauge (slightly stretched) is 5 sts and 8 rows per inch.You should measure the gauge for the stitch pattern you are going to do the main body of your sock in.
Once you have your gauge, you need to measure the circumference of your foot just above the ankle. For me that is 10 inches. I multiply that number by my gauge measurement (5sts/inch) and I get 50 stitches. Since I am doing a 2×2 rib, I need a number divisible by 4. I have 2 options here – I can go bigger to 52 stitches or smaller to 48. I didn’t plan this, but I already have 16 rows done with 48 stitches, so I’ll choose option 2. Another thing of note is that as long as your cast on is stretchy enough, it is a good idea to be a little smaller so that the socks will stay up a little better. So now for the first part of this sock KAL, you need to cast on whatever number of stitches you get for your particular measurements and gauge, and knit a rib (cuff) for about 2 inches (or the length of your choice). You can make the rib anything you like, but the smaller ribs tend to have a little more spring to them and work better for a cuff. If your gauge was for stocking stitch, adjust your stitch total to have an appropriate number to fit into your rib repeat. You can increase/decrease as necessary once the cuff is done.
Once you finish your cuff to the desired length, work the leg of your sock to the desired length. I realize I didn’t put this part on the diagram of the sock a few days ago. The leg is the portion between the cuff and the beginning of the heel flap. Again, you have the option of making this any length you want, depending on the length of your sock. I should also note that we are not accounting for knee length or higher socks here – we will delve into that with another sock in the future. After your leg is done to the length you desire, you need to put your stitches on a stitch holder and repeat all this again for sock number 2. I recommend using some contrast yarn and a darning needle so that you will be able to try on your first sock as well. The reason we are knitting both socks at the same time (kind of) is twofold. The first reason is to eliminate the 1 sock syndrome where after doing one sock you’re dejected at having to do another one. The second reason is reinforcement. We learn best from repetition, and since you’re learning new techniques, they’ll get reinforced the sooner you do them again. When we move into the heel flap and turn and such, they’ll be easier for you if you do them twice. I guess another reason is so that you can see that both socks are identical, and it raises the anticipation level of completion.
So your homework is to have 2 socks completed to the heel flap. Leave the second one on the needles and the first one on the stitch holder. We’ll tackle the heel flap next next Monday. This will give you a week to get this portion done. Let me know if that’s enough time!
Hugzzz 😎