![\"SAMSUNG\"](\"https:\/\/ittakesballstoknit.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/08\/swatch4.jpg\")
<\/a><\/p>\nUsing the ruler above (it’s conveniently magnified over the 4″ or 10cm gauges), I can count the number of stitches over the desired distance.\u00a0 In this case, the gauge is 30sts over 4″. Even though the gauge is usually over 4″ or 10cm, if I am able, I will measure over more than that. Actually, the larger the area you can measure, the more accurate the measurement you’ll be able to get. Say you can measure over 10″, you’d then divide your result by 10 (simply move your decimal one place to the left) and you’ll get an accurate number for #stitches\/inch. In this case when I measured over 6″ I got the same 7.5 stitches per inch. This is not always the case and well worth the extra measurement when possible.<\/p>\n
The same applies to rows per inch. A lot of knitters don’t usually pay attention to rows per inch\/cm because they measure their work as they go. There’s a much more accurate way of doing this if you DO knot your row gauge. Simply count your rows and multiply it by your gauge to know the length of your work. This removes the error associated with taking measurements! It also ensures that your finished measurements are ACCURATE! This swatch resulted in a gauge of 32 rows over 4″, or 8 rows\/inch. If your row gauge is less that your stitch gauge you’ll need to reassess your measurements, as stitches are wider than they are tall, so you should always have more rows per inch!<\/p>\n
Another tip when it comes to measuring gauge – ALWAYS measure your gauge over BLOCKED work! <\/em>We can go on and on in the debate about whether or not to block. I won’t get into the debate here, but I’ll let your eyes decide for yourself. Here is a picture of the same swatch as above, but with a portion of it left unblocked so you can see the difference.<\/p>\n